Make a handy saw bench jig

I regularly need to cut a multiple number of short pieces on my saw bench for small box components, kids’ building blocks, small pieces for furniture etc. In the past I have clamped in place various contraptions to ensure each piece is the same length. It is difficult to hold small pieces to cut them accurately but this jig solves the problem.

Cut small pieces of woodwork securely

I regularly need to cut a multiple number of short pieces on my saw bench for small box components, kids’ building blocks, small pieces for furniture etc. In the past I have clamped in place various contraptions to ensure each piece is the same length. It is difficult to hold small pieces to cut them accurately but this jig solves the problem. It attaches to the saw bench in seconds and probably takes longer to get out of the cupboard than to fit. The jig fits securely and the three different positions allow me to adjust and cut up to 190 mm. Larger pieces I can hold securely against a stop on the sliding table or mitre gauge. As saw bench dimensions can vary you may need to make some size adjustments to fit your particular saw.

T slots

This jig uses one of the T slots generally found each side of the saw bench blade for sliding the mitre gauge in. Some T slots are not large at the bottom as they are designed only to hold a washer on the mitre gauge to stop it from lifting. For older saw benches with only a square slot, there is an alternative means of fastening the jig (see panel, Square slot). My saw bench has a sliding table but this jig will work just as well if you have only a mitre gauge. I make a lot of different jigs for my home workshop and, as with this jig, I use off-cuts from previous jobs, here 18 mm MDF for the bottom and 9 mm for the top (use whatever you have in your workshop).



T bolts

I always have a good supply of T bolts on hand for jig-making to save me having to order them each time. Unfortunately the heads of the T bolts in my supply were much smaller than the T slot on the saw bench. Answer: Use a penny washer and carefully cut a little from each side to allow it to fit in the bottom of the T slot on the saw bench. The flats stop it turning as well as holding the bolt at the bottom of the T slot. I then placed the washer on the T bolt, drilled a 3 mm hole through both, inserted a piece of brass brazing rod and then carefully peened it both sides with a hammer. You could easily electric weld or braze the two together but I have neither of those options in my workshop. The 3 mm rod is also just what I had available but any similar size or type of rod will do the trick. A simple nail could also be a good option. I needed to grind a little from the bottom of the modified T bolt to allow it to work freely in the T slot of the saw bench.



Base

The base is made from 18 mm MDF and has a rebate in order to give the sliding mechanism a reference point when you are sliding it into position. On the bottom of the base, I glued and nailed a strip of wood more or less the exact width of the slot in the saw bench. I suggest you get it as close as possible and then hand-plane or even hand-sand it so that it is a simple push-fit. The combined thickness of the wood and the head of the modified T bolt should be a millimetre or two less than the total depth of the T slot in your saw bench. The hole in the centre of the jig base is for the modified T bolt. The other two bolts hold the sliding mechanism in place. To stop the two T bolts turning, machine a slot to take the heads. I used a Forstner drill bit, carefully positioned it each side of the hole and drilled to a depth slightly deeper than the T bolt head thickness.



Top

The 9 mm top, the adjustable part, is also simple to make. It needs a slot cut to allow the mechanism to slide before being you tighten it into position. I drilled a hole each end of where I had marked out for the slot and then cut the rest out with a jigsaw. The small pieces glued underneath act both as stops for the sliding mechanism and for the piece of wood that you are cutting. When you use the jig, install it as far back as possible on the saw bench to ensure the piece or pieces being cut cannot jam against the stop. I use this jig regularly and often wonder why I did not arrive at the concept years ago. If you really want to be fussy you could give the two wooden components two or three coats of Danish oil. The T bolts and plastic knobs are available from Carbatec in Auckland or Comac in Palmerston North and both companies have good websites.

Share:

More Posts

Dad will love this!

Subscribe to The Shed magazine for one year this Father’s Day, and go into the draw to win one of two luxury car care packages worth $570 from Lovecars.
The prize: Adam’s Foam Cannon Kit includes a complete pressure-washer foam cannon setup; Michelle’s Car Wash Kit takes care of everything after the foam. It includes Autostolz Premium Auto Wash, Enhanced Ceramic Spray Wax, and loads more.
Together, you’ve got the setup to foam, wash, protect and dry your car properly – using some of NZ’s top-selling car detailing products.
A seriously good prize for anyone who loves keeping their car looking its best.

Building a dead man’s switch

Routers, power and cut-off saws, as well as angle grinders, can all inflict very nasty injuries in a fraction of a second. I can still remember nearly breaking my wrist many years ago when a heavy electric hand drill, fitted with a one-inch drill bit, decided it was time for me to revolve instead of it! A foot- operated cut-off switch would have been just the ticket on that occasion.
The dead man’s switch, as I will call it, is a simple device fitted in between the power supply and the operating equipment that requires a foot kept on it at all times for power to be supplied from the source to the equipment.
As it will undoubtedly spend a lot of its time on hard floors and possibly uneven surfaces, it needs to be robust as well as big enough to accommodate your foot comfortably. It should also be rugged and well protected from the scuffs and knocks it will undoubtedly suffer over the years.

You’ve got mail

In a world beset by increasing regulations, building codes, local government bylaws, vehicle safety legislation, and the like, very few things remain untouched by the long, deadening arm of bureaucracy. However, one that has escaped is the humble mailbox.
While their suburban cousins have generally succumbed to the pressure to have standardised, mass-produced models available from hardware chain stores, their rural brethren have maintained their diversity, and still reflect their owners’ creativity and imagination.
In this era of increasing conformity, the rural mailbox stands out as a statement of individuality made by those of us unwilling to follow the common herd. Although postal services worldwide are coming under continued pressure from the new delivery platforms, the mailbox is still an integral part of any property, rural or suburban. A good mailbox should be thought of as a fine example of street art, a whimsical statement by its owners perhaps reflecting their passions and interests, while fulfilling a utilitarian function.