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From Rust to Rrroaarrr video, part 5

In the first article, I wrote about nickel welding repairs to a broken cast-iron cooling fin (parts from a barbecue hot plate), magneto check, head repair, valve work and nickel plating the push rod cover tubes. The second article was mainly about how I developed nickel and copper plating, with a little bit about kick starter repair using nickel plate on a worn shaft, and grinding teeth. Third article, the start of frame painting; engine, clutch and gearbox assembly and installation, with magneto timing. In my last article, part four of the series, I described my efforts to rebuild the bike's dynamo (generator) by reconstructing the disintegrated commutator, rewinding the armature, replacing the bearings and then testing. Sadly, with no success. I have achieved a little bit of progress with fixing the fuel tank and the seat, but I have not really met any targets. When I started this series, I expected that by this article, part 5, I would be writing about fixing the famous ‘Jampot’ and ‘Teledraulic' suspensions, and at the end of part 6, I would have re-laced the wheels, having nickel-plated the spokes, rims and hubs ready for a trial ride.

About two years ago, I unpacked an old motorcycle (of about a 1952 birth-year, year of the Dragon, AJS 18S 500 cc single) and started to rebuild it. 
I had stored it, partly in pieces, for about 50 years.  Web searches on part numbers showed me that many parts were inconsistent in age: the machine is a bitser.  The upside to that is that I feel free to adapt parts and not remain true to the marque. This may result in some compliance issues later.
Some months into intermittent work, I thought that I could write about it for The Shed, and here is the fifth article describing what I have been doing.  I now wish I had taken more photos before commencing. 

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